Sunday, September 18, 2011

TIPS ON: Some Essential Phrases

I would like .............. Me gustaria...
I need your help ....... Necesito su ayuda
I am from.................. Soy de (e.g. Australia)
I would like a room... Me gustaria una habitacion

Do you have water?... Tienes botella de agua? (bottled water)
No pork please........... Por favor, no chancho
I don't understand.... No entiendo
Do you speak English? .... Habla ingles?

TIPS ON: Visiting The Sand Dunes of Huacachina

When you reach Ica, take a short 10 minute taxi ride to the oasis.  It is a paved road all the way there.  It should cost either 4 or 5 soles.

Bordering right around the oasis, there is a boardwalk, accompanied by restaurants and a few lodgings.   Outside of one side of the oasis is a single avenue, bordered by more hotels/hostels and restaurants; mostly hotels/hostels.  On that single avenue, you'll find two offices that sell Cruz Del Sur tickets.  There is a place that doubles as a internet shop.  There they can reserve your bus rides between various regions of Peru, and book tours, such as tours of the Nazca lines.  You can also book cheap buggy rides there all times of the day.  

The opposite side of the oasis is the entry to the vast sand dunes. To enter the sand dunes, you must pay a small fee: The Desert Tax.  Some people climb the sand dunes overlooking the oasis and hang out and have a little picnic.  Climbing the sand dunes is not easy, even for young and athletic people.  It takes patience and lower body strength.

People don't often swim in the oasis. It may be too shallow and dirty.  There are paddle boats you can rent to go around the oasis.


As for the buggies, riding the sand dunes is like riding a roller coaster. It's great fun! First when you book your buggy ride, they'll ask you to sign some waiver forms not to hold them responsible if anything happens.  Then they'll pick you up at a specific group meeting point at a certain time.  Then they'll drive you to the foot of the sand dune where everyone will hand money over to a woman who takes the Desert Tax.  Then you're off!!  You'll have a fun ride up and down and over the sides of dunes.   Eventually, they'll stop at a few dunes for you to go down the dunes on the sandboard by laying down or standing up.  It's your choice if you want to participate.  It's not hard! It feels like tobogganing, only a much smoother ride.  You dig the toes of your shoes into the sand to slow down.  After you've had a chance to go down the dune, they drive the buggy down to the bottom, collect everyone, and then you ride around the dunes again and stop at a few more dunes.

If you don't feel like going down the dunes by sandboard, either laying down or by standing up - don't do it!  I have heard stories of people dislocating their arm.  If the guide/drive pressures you to try it, just smile and say ''No... No gracias" (Translation: No... No thank you).  When I went, the driver kept telling the two other people with me to try the board.  The girl said she didn't want to, but wasn't insistent enough that she did not want to go, so she basically slid her way down the long sand dune on her bum. 


The smaller buggies may go out alone, while the bigger green El Huacachinero buggies will go out with two buggies (up to 16 people!), hence the long wait lines to sandboard down the dune.  Using the smaller buggies, you might wait for 8 people or less before your turn to snowboard down the dune.  And don't worry, if you don't wanna go down the dune, that's okay too.  They're pretty respectful and don't make you feel foolish for not joining the group.  I didn't go sandboarding when I went on the buggy ride for the second time, I just went for the buggy ride.


On almost every buggy ride, someone's camera gets damaged.  It is difficult to find a repair person in town.  Trust me, they told me there's a person at Kodak who can clean the sand out of the camera.  When I went into the town (Ica), they said that person was not working.  I went to the next shop about 6 blocks down, and that person's shop was closed for the day. I finally found someone in the galeria who cleaned my camera for about $30.00. After 3 hrs (though he told me it would take 1hour), it was fixed - but a few days later, the camera stopped working.  I've had to throw it out.

There are two places with Peruvian food:  Restaurant Mayo and at the hotel El Huachinero.   You can go in and eat there even if you're not staying at that hotel.  All around the oasis, it's Italian and American food.  But don't eat anything with milk or don't take milk in your tea.  It will give you the runs.  You can also take a taxi ride back to Ica for Peruvian dishes.  Ica has a high crime rate, so avoid going there at night.


TIPS:
1. Ensure you find out the Desert Tax at your hotel and carry that exact amount if possible on the buggy ride
2. If you want to take your camera, keep it in a ziploc bag and make sure you dust your hands off really well before ever taking it out to snap pictures.

3. Use the smaller buggies, it's cheaper and a better experience
4. Wear loose clothes that will be easier to walk on the dunes and go down the dunes in, like cargo pants or sweat pants. 
5. Ensure you keep your elbows and knees on the board, otherwise you can skin yourself over the sand going down. It happens.
6. If you have long pants, tuck your pants in your socks or shoes when you sandboard down the dune, otherwise your pants will be like sandbags once you reach the bottom (speaking from experience)
7. Try and get a front seat in the buggy. The back seats are really hard to board, especially if you're older or overweight or have joint problems.  You have to step up on the huge wheel and over the bars...
8. Try and get a buggy ride around sunset so you can catch the sunset over the dunes.

Monday, July 4, 2011

TIPS ON: What The Weather Feels Like During High-Season

Oddly enough, your summer vacation is actually winter in Cusco.  So you're wondering what it feels like.  Well everyone says it's cold.  What kind of cold?
I'm from Ontario, Canada.  For those of you who think that means my standard is super cold and we live in igloos.... we don't.  Our winters feels similar to the winters in New York.


I can tell you June/July in Cusco feels like October-November.  It is cold enough for a padded jacket.  What I mean by that is not a winter jacket, but a thinner winterish jacket.  Not a spring or fall jacket or wind breaker, but a little bit thicker. 

You'll feel pretty cold walking around, but it's not like your cheeks or hands get cold. 
Your hotel blankets at night will be cold to the touch, so it is better to have socks and maybe a hoodie and sweat pants to sleep in.


It is best to book a hotel that has a heater if you want to get good sleep.  Add to the altitude sickness symptom of sleeplessness of being cold at night - its not a fun mix.  Most hotels in Cusco and the Sacred Valley don't have heated rooms, but they may have portable plug-in heaters they may give you for free or rent to you for about 10 soles.  So definitely check that out.

Hope that gives you an idea of what to pack and what to wear!

TIPS:
-pack a Fall season jacket
-pack socks
-pack sweat pants to sleep in
-pack a hoodie
-before booking in June/July, ask you hotel if they have portable heaters

Friday, July 1, 2011

TIPS ON: What To Do If You're Lost

Sometimes you might go out for the night and forget how to get back to your hotel or you may get off the bus or plane and not know where your hotel is, nor does the taxi driver.

Here are some tips that will help you in such situations:

1.Before you leave for your trip write down the name of all your hotels, the address, phone number and website address.
e.g.:
Ccapac Inka Ollanta
Los Eucaliptos street n/n Ollantaytambo
http://www.hotelinkaollanta.com/en/hotel-ollantaytambo
This way, if you land and don't know the address nor does the staff at the airport or bus station, they can look up the website.  If the taxi driver doesn't know where the street is, he can use his cell or a public phone to call and get directions.  Keep two copies, 1. in your purse or backpack and 2. in your suitcase in case you lose the first one

2. Once you get to your hotel, get two copies of their business card.  When you go out, make sure you have this card in your pocket, purse or backpack.  Again, if you're coming back to the hotel later and the taxi driver doesn't know the location of your hotel, he can check the address clearly written on the card.

3.  If for any reason the taxi driver doesn't know where your hotel is or you dont have a card, address or number of the hostel, drop in to the nearest hotel you can find.  At this point, you can do two things, ask them to search the address of your hotel and write it down, or you can ask to use their public computers to search it yourself.

4. If you have the number of the hotel on you, and the taxi driver doesn't want to call for directions, then drop in at the first hotel or hostel you can find, ask the hotel or hostel to call your hostel and have your hotel or hostel send a taxi to the place you're at.

5. Ask the hotel to call your next hotel and write down directions from the bus station or airport to the next hotel.


From my experience, taxi drivers often don't know the hotels.  We can't expect them to know every hotel and hostel in town or every district.  A number of times I've been at one hotel and have asked them to write down the directions to the next hotel, and they respond with "Every taxi driver knows this place, it's okay".  I end up getting in the taxi and the driver has to stop every two minutes to ask a pedestrian, "I have a question, do you know the hotel __________?"  Its a waste of time and a huge risk, so make sure you have the number and address and get the directions if you can.

I once went for a walk at night to get a bite to eat, and I knew my hostel was two blocks from the Plaza De Armas, but was it two blocks from the Northern side of the Plaza? From the South-Eastern corner?  I walked in the direction I thought I came from, but ended up down a dark dead-end street.  I went back to the Plaza De Armas and asked about 5 taxi drivers to take me to my hostel and none knew where it was.  I stopped in at a few hostels and asked them to call my hostel (I happened to memorize the number because I had to call a few times before).  The hostel I stopped in at called my hostel and someone came to pick me up. 

The last thing you want to do is walk around asking locals.  You don't want to appear lost, because that makes you vulnerable to being jumped/robbed.

Primary tip: Ensure you have the address and number on you. 
Secondary tip: if you don't have it or lost it, stop in at your nearest hostel to have them search the address or ask to use one of their public computers to search the address yourself. Say: "No puedo encontrar mi hotel. Puedes busque la dirección con su computador? Se llama _______" (I can't find my hotel. Can you please search the address with your computer?) or "Me gustaria usar su computadora.  No se la direccion de mi hotel" (I would like to use your computer. I dont know the address of my hotel).

DO NOT walk around asking locals. You don't want to appear lost and confused.  That makes you an ideal target for getting robbed.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

TIPS ON: Using Taxi's in Peru

The taxi drivers throughout Peru are quite friendly.  From the time you step in each cab, you are almost guaranteed to get a pretty regular script that will go like this (but in Spanish):

Taxi: Where are you from?
You: ___________
Taxi: How many days in Peru?
You:____
Taxi: Where are you travelling in Peru?
You: ________
Taxi: Have you been to Cusco already? It's very beautiful.
You:____________
Taxi: Do you like the Peruvian food? Cebiche? Chicharrones?
You:___________
Taxi: Did you go to the clubs/discotech?
You:______________
Taxi: Do you like the salsa, merengue and cumbia?
You: ____________

They are very very friendly.

Here are some phrases you must know for the cab:
Me gustaria ir a ____________________ en (town).
I would like to go to ___________________ in (town).

Cuantos?

How much?

Caro! Menos por favor.

That's expensive.  Charge a little less please.

Cuantos minutos a ____(destination)____?

How many minutes until ____(destination)____?

Tienes telefono? Tengo numero de telefono de mi hospedaje/hotel.

Do you have a phone? I have the number of  my hostel/hotel.

*I recommend always having the number of your hostel or hotel in case the taxi driver can't find the place or the locals don't know it either.  If you have already been to the hostel/hotel, pick up their card and take it with you in case you or the taxi driver gets lost when you're coming back home.




 DANGER


You will hear warning after warning about using taxi's in Peru and how unsafe they can be.

Here are a few basic tips to stick to:
1. Only take taxi's that have that lit up taxi sign on top













 

2. Take a taxi with the sign on top that just let someone out, so you know it's safe

3. Leave your suitcase or luggage in the trunk, so if you get stuck up by a civilian at a stop sign or something, they can't get access to whatever you might have had in your suitcase

4. If you have a purse or bag, leave it on the ground so people can't quickly open your door and grab it off the seat or your lap

5. Stand beside police or security guards when flagging down a taxi.  Once when I was beside a policeman and was flagging down a taxi, the taxi driver stopped but seemed in a hurry to get me in and kept looking at the police man, like he wanted to me to get in before the police saw, so I told the taxi driver "No it's okay"

6. Do not rely on taxi's that have an oval taxi sticker on the windshield, like in the photo below.  It's a fake. They are not safe and valid taxi's.  The drivers pull off the sticker once you jump in, or around security and police.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

TIPS ON: Using Cruz Del Sur

Here is a walkthrough so you know exactly where to go and what to expect.

1. It is completely safe to book your ticket online or through an agency. If you choose to buy your ticket at the station that is okay too.  Be advised that earlier departures may fill up.

2. Take a taxi to the Cruz Del Sur Station:















(The Lima station)
















(The Ica station)

3. Go to the check-in to convert your online voucher to a real ticket with an assigned seat, or to purchase your ticket:















(Lima check-in)
















(Ica check-in and baggage drop off)


4.  Drop off your baggage at the baggage check.  Lima has a separate area for this.  Some smaller stations have the baggage drop off right where your redeem your online voucher or buy your ticket:














(Lima baggage drop off) 

5. Ensure when you check your baggage that you keep your baggage ticket they give you, otherwise you may not be able to get your luggage back from them.  At one point, I couldn’t find my baggage ticket and they said they couldn’t give me my luggage.  I had to prove to them it was my bag by the address listed on my license and the address listed on my baggage tag. 

6. Wait at the assigned gate about 5 minutes before your departure.  Smaller stations only have one bus at a time coming in or one gate so you’ll know that it’s your bus.  Additionally it says the destination in big letters.

7. They will check your passport and your ticket before your board

8. Some stations will check your baggage for weapons.

9. V.I.P. is on the lower level, and the regular section is above

10. Check your ticket to see which seat you’re in.  In this photo, you will see where it says the seat number, which in this case is number 07: 

11. After your ride, you can wait outside the bus to get your bags or they will bring it into the station.  Again, make sure you have your baggage ticket ready:

(People retrieving their bags after the bus ride)



END OF WALKTHOUGH



V.I.P vs Regular Seating



















VIP has wider seats.  They are covered in a leather-like material.  There is more leg/foot space.  The chairs recline much more further, so when your recline it all the way, you are almost laying straight.  There are single seats available in VIP.


















Both levels include t.v’s where they play movies or musical performances.



As you can see, regular seats don’t recline as much, are not as wide and have seats side by side.  There are no single seats. 

TIPS:
1. They say to arrive 1hour before departure, but don’t fret if you are late and arrive just 20 mins before.
2. Be aware the buses are often late. Remember when these buses pick you up, your pick-up point is also a stop-over from many other beginning locations.  For example, if you’re at the bus station in Nazca, the bus may have started in Lima, stopped off in Paracas, then again in Ica and then at your point.  When travelling for over 9 hours, you can’t expect the bus to be on time.
3. I would recommend VIP for longer journeys. 
4. Take some food and water with you, especially when travelling to higher altitudes like Arequipa, Puno or Cusco.  Take altitude tablets and coca leaves if you can buy some, because even though Cruz Del Sur normally offers coca tea, they did not offer any during my bus ride, so it’s better to be safe than in pain.  Carbs and water help counter the symptoms of altitude sickness.
5. The washrooms can get nasty and sometimes it’s hard to keep the seat down with a covering of toilet paper on top, so use the washroom elsewhere before boarding or use the washroom at stop off points.


Tuesday, June 14, 2011

TIPS ON: Battling Altitude Sickness

DO NOT START IN CUSCO.

As you increase in altitude, the air loses oxygen and moisture.  As you know, we need oxygen to get into our blood and nourish our organs, and we require it for our overall body to survive.  So what do you imagine will happen when we get less and less oxygen and moisture .... we get more and more sick and dehydrated.

Well for some reason, some of us don't get as sick. According to scientific studies, it doesn't matter your age, your gender, your weight, your health or your race (unless you're from an ethnic group that has lived high in the mountains for generations like the Quechua people who have bigger lungs to take in more oxygen at once), no one is more susceptible (likely to get) altitude sickness.

However in speaking from experience, I believe the extent from which you wil suffer very much depends on your body.  It seems if you are more overweight, your heart and body does have to work much harder to carry your body weight up and down and around.

What does altitude sickness feel like in Cusco? The extent of what you experience is different for everyone.  But, you know when you're doing cardio and you've pushed yourself to your maximum heart rate and you feel out breath and your heart is pounding and you almost start to get a tightness in your chest?  That's what a mild case feels like.  It doesn't hurt badly, but it feels as if you've been walking uphill for a few minutes when you've only been walking down the street a few feet. 

As I was taking a bus up to Cusco with Cruz Del Sur (who didn't offer coca tea for some reason), I started to feel a tightness in my chest about 8 hrs before arriving in Cusco (we were heading up the mountain).  It was a light uncomfortable feeling that spread to my shoulders and jaw and to my back a little bit.  I didn't experience any headaches or dizziness because I drank lots of water to counter dehydration, but I did take one altitude sickness tablet 8hrs before arriving.  I think that even if you take the advice below, some of the symptoms like feeling out of breath and that you're at your max heart rate is inevitable and can last a few days. If your symptoms end up being worse than the basics I just mentioned, you may want to go down to Ollantaytambo which is a traditional residential town with a few ruins, only about a drve of 1 hour and 45 mins from Cusco.

I experienced extreme laziness, to the point that my mind was affected.  I had no motivation to go to the Plaza De Armas in Cusco, to talk to anyone, to watch tv, to go eat or something.  I didn't want to see anyone, I didn't want to do anything.  You are quite content to sit on your bed and look at the wall, and that is quite a contrast from the person who travels all the way to Peru to explore a new culture.

So you're wondering How do I prevent altitude sickness?  

As I've mentioned, you get sick because of the lack of oxygen and hydration in your body, so I'm not sure you can really prevent that as we need the oxygen to survive.  But you can drink lots of water before going to Cusco, Puno or Arequipa and during your trip there.

THE PREMIER NUMBER ONE TIP: DO NOT START IN CUSCO.
Landing in Cusco may be a necessity, but take a taxi directly to Ollantaytambo. (it is at a much
lower altitude and you may not experience any altitude sickeness there). It is a beautiful place. Stay there for a few days, go to Urubamba and Machu Picchu, and then go to Cusco.  Also, limit the number of days you spend in Cusco after Ollantaytambo, just in case you get hit with altitude sickness still.

Here are some other things you can do to help cope with the altitude sickness:

Before Arriving:
1. Drink huge bottles of water
2. Chew on coca leaves
3. Eat heavy carbs (pasta, potatos and bread -yum!)
4. Do not overeat
5. Take an 'altitude sickness tablet' starting 1 day before

When Arriving or During Your Time in Cusco:
1. Start out at a lower town after arriving in Cusco, such as Ollantaytambo.
2. Walk slowly. That means walk as if you have next to no energy left. Walk as if you haven't slept all night and you're getting up to walk at 4am. Slllooowwww
3. Plan no activities on your first few days in Cusco
4. No alcohol, no smoking, no sleeping pills
5. Hang out in Cusco by day, go back to Ollantaytambo just before sunset
6. Practice deep breathing techniques.  Relax, breathe in slowly and deeply. Hold your breath for 3 seconds and release slowly
7. Drink lots of water all day


Sunday, June 5, 2011

TIPS ON: What to Take for Quechua Communities



It is always great to be able to give to others.  As a Muslim, we have been taught by the Prophet Muhammad, When there is a Muslim who plants (trees), and from their fruits the human beings or the beasts or birds eat, it would be taken as an act of charity on the Day of Resurrection.”


That means that when you are able to contribute something, you are not only committing the act (e.g. buying a water filter), but the people and environment are also able to benefit from it on a long term basis.  Through the safe drinking water, you are making that family stronger and healthier; they are better able to assist and contribute to the whole community.  Maybe the child of that family will become a carpenter and build advanced shelter.  Or he or she could have had the strength and ability to travel into the city to get an education and advocate for recognition of issues facing indigenous communities; whereas he/she could not have done that being infected from a young age with contaminated drinking water. 

Of course my example is an exaggeration so that you get the idea, but nevertheless it’s a possibility and often a reality.  Therefore, you understand, based on what you donate, the whole community can benefit from your charity or donation.  This is called ‘sustainability’ or ‘sustainable donations’.


I have always been committed to the type of charity that has long-term, ongoing benefits for large groups of people.  In Arabic, this is called  Sadaqah Jariyah


When you go to such communities, I do not recommend taking candy for the children, or just loaves of bread, but perhaps you might take the following:
-water purification tablets (can be bought in Cusco)
-scissors
-blankets
-frying pans
-cooking utensils
-plastic storage containers
-hammer
-nails
-clothing material/textile
-shoes


Again, consider things that can be used over a long period of time or by a number of people.

As for me, though it is not much, I am taking textile (thick materials from which they can sew clothes for children), pot spoons, tongs, ziploc bags, knives, water purification tablets and bars of soap, toothbrushes, pencils and crayons.

 

Saturday, June 4, 2011

TIPS ON: Indigenous Communities You Could Visit

If you're looking to visit traditional Andean communities, you must head south towards Cusco....and continue south into the Andes.  So the following pertains to areas from Cusco heading Southwards.

Are you looking to visit somewhere that isn't 'as frequented' by tourists?  What do I mean 'as frequented'?  Well there are certain communities that are visited by tourists in droves.  Because of this, you don't get to learn about their traditional lifestyle as they are focused on selling their goods to tourists.  It is a wonderful thing for us to have this kind of exchange where we see them for a few hours and how they live and buy products from them and go back to our hotels.


Image taken from ' wildland.com '
Patacancha - selling to tourists.


If you want to visit such communities, visit 'Willoc', 'Patacancha' and 'Amaru'. The following company can arrange a visit or 1 night stay with Patacancha: http://www.awamaki.org/community-visits

Other communities on hiking trails that are a little further way but are often visited by hikers include Huacahuasi, Cuncani and Siusa.

Another community that is considered the 'last incas' is very isolated. You must trek for days by foot to see them.  They are called ' Q'eros '. 

I will suggest some other communities to visit that have been suggested by tour guides.  I have not visited any of the following yet, but you can ask a tour guide about visiting any of these more rural, less-'popular', communities:
-Cusibamba
-Ccasacunca
-Paru Paru
-Choquecancha
-Misminay
-Tinki, Upis and other communities within Ausangate

If you can suggest any other lesser-known communities to visit for a more 'real' cultural experience, please leave a comment and add to the list.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Cusco Personal Tour Guides

I have not used any of these tour guides so I cannot endorse the individuals listed below, but for your convenience, I am listing the tour guides for the Cusco region that have been recommended by various tourists on a number of travel forums.  I have had communications with all of them and I found them to be very patient and helpful.

You can email them and tell them your interests. For tips on choosing a guide and getting the best price and itinerary, I refer you to the the following tips page: http://peru101.blogspot.com/2011/05/choosing-personal-guide.html



In random order:

Edwin C.: guide_2775-175@toursbylocals.com
Hernan Hermoza Gamarra: hernanhermoza77@hotmail.com
Fiona G. Cameron: info@tikatrek.com
David M. Ramos: davidm14499@hotmail.com
Yure Chaves: yure_c@yahoo.com
Roger Martin Valencia Espinoza: roger@auqui.com.pe
Axel Tippe: axel_tippe@yahoo.es
Wilfredo Willca Gamarra: wilfredowillka@hotmail.com
Celinda H.: guide_311-175@toursbylocals.com
Sofia Barreda (will connect you with a guide. She's an agent): sofiabarreda@gmail.com

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

TIPS ON: How To Pack A Lot and As Little as Possible in a Small Suitcase

As mentioned in one of my first posts, if you're really travelling through various parts of Peru then you're actually travelling through various climates.


I wanted to see traditional Peruvian culture and communities, Inca ruins, and the Nazca lines.  That meant I was going to Nazca (a desert) and Cusco (highlands).  Thats almost a stark contrast. 


So that meant instead of packing a number of sweaters, I packed 1, and I could layer up on tshirts and pants if I need to.  To pack very little, I had to give up a diversity of looks for my photos, and stick to maybe just two or three tshirts.


I'm not going in rainy season, but I did bring a windbreaker as a jacket and in case it rains.


My suitcase is the kind where if you packed it to the brim with your everyday clothes, the most it'll weigh is maybe 35lbs.


Here's how mine looks so far, excluding a hoodie, and a few summer tee's, charges and batteries.





How to Pack a Lot in a Small Suitcase:
1. You can line the suitcase with thin clothes.  In my case, I'm taking material/textile to a rural community so they can sew clothes for the children.  You will see the black and white material I lined the suitcase with in the above photo.
2. ROLL everything nice and tight.  Maintain the tight rolling with an elastic band (as you can see with the grey sweat pants)
3. Take all food out of the boxes (i.e. granola bars, crackers, tea bags etc.)
4. Place flat items like underwear and bras in the top/outside pockets. Make good use of those external pockets.  Most of the time they don't search your suitcase, so your packing will be maintained.  They just x-ray the suitcase.
5. Most suitcases have a lining that will allow you to unzip a thin lining that reveals the skeleton of the suitcase that might have some free space.  Pack items there, as the photo below will show.


How to Pack as Little As Possible:
-sacrafice variety: 5 tops for everyday of the week, maybe take just 3. -stick to necessity:  dont take a lot of fancy clothes. You're mainly in Southern Peru to rough it.  You'll be on a lot of 'Earthy terrain'. People go to restaurants and clubs in regular clothes anyways
-wear the same running shoes you did for trekking to go to the market, or to the restaurant.  In other words, wear one pair of shoes. If your shoes get damaged, you'll just buy a cheap pair there, no biggie.
-two pants: one to sleep in, one to hike and go out with, and maybe wear a nice one on the plane.  You can use the nice one for when you go to the restaurants n stuff.
-wear some of the thicker clothes on the plane ride; I'll be wearing my thickest item - my hoodie
-pack some of the bulkier items in a carry-on
-go to the Dollar Store or discount store and buy mini empty travel containers; they're a real diamond in the rough.  So perfect! Instead of buying some crappy travel shampoos and soaps and face washes, you can squeeze your favourite items from home in these containers:



So what have I managed to pack in this little suitcase so far??!
(the first bit are for the rural communities living in the mountains)

-12 abrasive sponges
-20 girls hair ties
-2 packs of pencils
-a pack of 6 knives
-2 packs of crayola crayons
-1 pack of smiley face balloons
-2 bottles of bubble soap (to blow bubbles)
-ziploc bags
-7 toothbrushes
-1 light cargo pants (that can be shortened to shorts) - helps with the contrast in climates

-1 thing sweatpants to sleep in
-1 windbreaker
-2 sports bras
-8 underwears
-5 pairs of white socks, 1 pair of black socks
-2 sweaters

-crackers
-6 granola bars
-6 fibre bars
-packet to potato flakes for mashed potatoes (carbs help you to counter mountain sickness)

-12 Tetley Tea bags
-1 can of insect repellant

-1 tube of sunblock
-1 full bottle of bath soap and scrub sponge
-1 toothbrush and carrying case

-8 hair ties
-gloves (for a cold night staying with a community in the mountains)
-1 water bottle with spout
-reactine, sudafed and pain killers (some in my suitcase, some in my bag for emergencies)
-plastic bags for dirty laundry or wet clothes that didn't get a chance to dry
-toilet tissue
-orthotics



Tuesday, May 31, 2011

TIPS ON: Choosing a Personal Guide

First of all, why choose a personal guide over joining a group?  Below are the benefits:
1. You are able to tell them when you want to go
2. You are able to tell them where you want to go
3. You can tell them your main interests and goals
4. You are able to constantly make changes to the itenerary
5. You are able to make changes to lower costs
6. You are able to determine the length of the trip, (i.e. 1 day trip, 2 nights, full day, half-day etc.)

7. You can negotiate the costs
8. Most importantly, you'll have the full attention of the personal guide and you are able to soak in so much more knowledge

Here are the drawbacks:
1. The price will be much higher, especially if you're just 1 person




So the question is, 'Where do I find a guide?!'.  A simple web search of "Personal Guides Cusco'' is the best way to go.  You'll have to specify which town in the country you're looking to start out from.   Just because your destination may be 'Ollantaytambo' for example, don't search 'Tour Guide Ollantaytambo'. Search the nearest major town or city where the homebase is for a lot of the tour guides.   You can also search travel forums such as 'Yahoo Travel' or 'Tripadvisor' or 'VirtualTourist' or 'LonelyPlanet'.  Some sites will have listings of guides.  At other times, you'll have to type in 'personal guide cusco' in their search tool to see if anyone already asked and people answered.  And lastly, you can sign up and post a message in the forum asking for recommendations.  Let the people on the forum know what your interests are.  (i.e. I want to go to Puerto Maldonado and do an ecotour in the Peruvian Amazon or I want to visit the most fantastic constructions by the Incas).  OR you could go here where I have listed a few all on one page for your convenience.  If you found this helpful or any other posts, please comment and let me know: http://peru101.blogspot.com/2011/06/cusco-personal-tour-guides.html

One of the main questions is, "What do I look for in a guide?!"  You may think years of experience as a tour guide is number one. For Peru, a lot of the tour guides are indigenous to the area; Quechua. Especially in Cusco.  They are from the rural communities.  In addition, they went to school to get tourism degrees.  They know the language of the land: Quechua, Spanish and some English.   It may seem silly, but having YEARS of experience is not the number one factor, because they often know their region like the back of their hand.  They may not have years of tour guide experience, but they have lived-experience.  What is more important, is their knowledge.  After all, that is what you are going for; to learn.  You may ask them why they are interested in the topic or location you are interested in, just to see if they are as passionate as you are.  Further, don't always opt to choose the older guides over the young adults.  The younger they are, the more they're able to manage the terrain and at the same time support you.  If you're visiting Quechua or indigeneous communities, it iuseful to ask if the guide has visited the community and has a friendly relationship with them.  Once I was taken to a community but never interacted with the locals because the guide was of an ethnicity that historically was at war with the ethnicity of the village I entered.  So this time around, when I was looking for communities that were not often visited by tourists (and thereby tour guides), I asked the tour guide if they've ever visited with the community they suggested and what their relationship with the people has been like.

Next question, "How do I get a rate I can afford?!" Once you get some contacts, you can send out a bunch of emails and see what they have to say.  Also let them know you are getting quotes from other guides.  Once they reply, respond and low ball them (that means quote a much lower price so ideally they will meet you in the middle).  Although you don't know their intentions, a number of people assume you got money comin' out the wazoo (like our friend Antoine George who proved that in his emails) because you're from a developed country.  So a lot of the time, guides will high ball you and expect you to think that's a completely normal rate.  This is when you write another email low-balling them with a fake quote from another guide.  If the guide is sincere, they may stick to their original rate.  If they were charging you a bit too much, they may bring it down a bit.  When I was searching for a guide for Q'eros, one guide said $500 for two nights.  I got him to come down to $400 for one night.  I cross referenced with about two other guides.  Their rates for 2 nights were around $700 or $800, so I knew I was getting a good deal with the first person.  This is the usefulness of cross-checking.

Once you're more interested in a specific guide, you might wonder, "How can I renegotiate the rate even further?!".  Here are some ways to lower the rate:
1. If possible, ask if the rate can be lowered by using public transportation instead of a rented car
2. Offer to buy local food rather than having the guide prepare a lunch or hiring a cook
3. Offer the guide to leave an excellent review on a travel forum or travel
 blog and to recommend them to others, and email them the link after.
4. Decrease the number of hours
With one guide, he wanted to do a day trip with a private car, go to various sites, and do a religious ceremony with a shaman.  The day trip (usually ranging from 7am-6pm) would have cost me $250 with a private car and an extra $150 for a ceremony with a shaman.  That money doesnt even go to the 'shaman'.  When I told him we could take a taxi and I don't need the session with the shaman, the rate came down to $150.  With another guide, he wanted a full day session to learn about traditional Quechua music for $150.00  I told him we could do a half day, maybe 4 hrs, for $50.00  He accepted.


If you're wondering if you're getting the 'best bang for your buck', you would might ask, "How do I know the guide is making the best itinerary for my needs?!".  From my experience, if you're looking for something off the beaten path, as it were, then you need to:
1. Google the destination they mention (i.e. Salkantay for trekking, Huacahuasi for Quechua communities etc)
2. Read about the site in the guide books and see if it's really concerning your interest
3. Ask on travel forums if people have visited the site and they learned a lot
4. Ask other tour guides what sites they might recommend for your interests and quote the sites your tour guide suggested; see if they agree those locations are fitting.  (Don't tell them you've selected a guide already)
For example, I was interested in visiting various Incan religious sites.  The tour guide suggested a number of religious sites.  I then googled those sites to see what their main purpose was and what the main religious sites are listed as.  I was able to email him to make other suggestions.  He was very agreeable.


You may ask for my recommendations for a guide.  I will review all my guides once I get back.


Take-home tips:
1. Low-ball
2
. Ask them about their experience and knowledge-base and passion
3. Cross-reference their quote and recommendations for the itinerary with other guides

4. Feel free to make the changes I suggested to reduce costs

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Review of Antoine George of Transhumancias


"I wish you a very bad trip Mr ***** and a very bad experience, we will do all what we can with the (q'eros) community so that it be so.
Worst regards"

-Antoine George of Transhumancias


It is important to be vigilant and be careful of those you work with.  Ensure the tour guide is experienced, and is not exploiting the communities or you.  Check for reviews.


Be aware of tour guides, like the one below, who will insult indigenous tour guides and say their services are not safe just because they are giving a better/reasonable rate.
I contacted 'Transhumancias', for which there were '0' reviews, and asked for his pricing. He said for two days I could reach Q'eros.  Every other suggests at least 3-7 nights are required.  This is an example of why it is necessary to contact other honest tour guides.  You should always cross-check info with other guides to ensure tour guides are telling you the truth and giving you the best itinerary. 


Below is an example of tour guides out there that 1. Don't have much respect for tourists, 2. Will try to humiliate other tour guides to get your business and 3. Put you down if you try to question their reliability. 


You have the right to be treated with dignity.
You have the right to explore other options.
You have the right, and should in fact, ask as many questions as possible to verify their reliability.


Lucky for you, there are bloggers and travellers like me who will warn you and post reviews.

He has given me permission (as you will see in his email) to post his emails.  I'll allow you to draw your own conclusions about him from his emails.  Feel free to comment.

ps I never told him my sex, or my travel experience, intentions or which country I am from.


I've bolded his interesting comments for those who don't have the patience to read everything.


Enjoy!






His email:
This people are considered as the "last incas" and their shamans are considered as the best of the Andes. They almost never receive tourist, or very seldomly and very few.

The cost for this small trip on your own including 4x4 vehicle for 2 days, intercultural/translator guide for 2 days, night in the community with food, shaman and ceremony is USD 689 (this is the minimum price). The price doesn't include any insurance and you go there at your own risk, Transhumancias cannot be considered liable for any health problem that can occur to you during the program.


NB: I don't give any information on this communities in order not to risk people to contract other operators who don't know them as I do and who usually exploit this communities. I have been working for 12 years with them on a sustainable tourism project so that they can avoid exploitation and I am the only one who have explored their whole territory. You can understand I cannot take any risk, sorry. (except he discloses everything minutes later in an email reply)

My response:
You don't want to exploit the communities. That is nice. Aside from the car rental and your service, how much of that $689 is going to the community to support them?
Thanks

Antoine George's response:
Sorry this is a confidential information between our agency and Q'ero community. usually apart from payments to local community guide (we are the only agency to train and hire them on a fair fee basis) and payments to families for food and accomodation calculated and agreed upon with the community (once again we are the only agency to work this way with these communities as other prefer to camp) we dedicate a percentage as donation to community authorities for collective use. The percentage depends on our profit margin which varies depending on the number of participants. When there is only one participant this percentage is higher.
What costs most on your trip is vehicle and translator / guide.


My response:
Gracias
I got an offer for $475 two nights Q'eros
but I was interested in something closer but it looks like that is not your specialty.
Thank you for your help.


His response:
The service I proposed you was with a private 4x4 and a private guide. At the price they offer you can be sure the guide is exploited, I really don't know which transportation you will have but it doesn't seem very safe to me and I am 100% sure there is no contribution to the community. I really wonder why you asked me about contribution to the community when your main preocupation is the price. My struggle has been against this kinf of toruism practice and I really hope I can stop it. I will call my friend in the community so that they can be aware that once again they want to exploit them. Any way hope you have a good trip Mr ******.


My response:
You are very impressive.  I didn't mention anything about the vehicle and you already know that it is not safe.   The vehicle is only to the base, the rest is hiking.
If he can offer $475 for two nights, it means that people who charge $700 for 1 night are really making money off the community of Q'eros.  The more you charge than what is needed, the more money you make.


You do not know what is in the hearts of people, and you do not know whether a person is going to Q'eros for fun, or to learn or to research so it is not wise to say a person is engaging in bad tourism or does not care.
As you know there are many guides going there for many years and have a very close relationship with Q'eros, and I don't think its very professional or respectful that you are saying they are  exploiting them.  You don't know the people, you should not say mean things about them.

I'm sorry I dont want to do business with you.


His response:
I don't want either Mr *****. This what we would have paid for your trip, compare with what they offer you and ask how much they contribute to the community.

Private 4X4 on a return trip costs USD 300, which includes one night and food for the driver there. 
We pay our guide the established official price USD 80 / day
We pay local Q'ero spanish speaking guide USD 40 / day
We make a donation of USD 50 to the community to contribute to their development fund.
We pay for accomodation and food USD 50 for one night for you and the guide.

The rest : USD 89 for the agency (communication, taxes, organisation, ...)



I don't see how more transparent I could be with you and I cannot see how it can be less than this without paying less for transportation, less for the guide,
less for the Q'ero and for 2 nights. Let me laugh Mr ******!!!



Q'ero people to struggle against this kind of tour operator who cheap trips exploiting them and they will be informed of your arrival. I don't tell you this to convince you Mr ****** as I am not either interested to work with people like you who are not really interested in culture but in a kind of curiosity with only "female guides". Once again Mr ***** let me laugh !!
You don't know what is in the heart of this indigenous people  and you might learn it in a not very agreable way.

I wish you a very bad trip Mr ***** and a very bad experience, we will do all what we can with the community so that it be so.

Worst regards
(Note he turned from 'Best regards' to 'Worst regards'. Note that he said the information was confidential and cared so much about the community so as not to disclose their name, but allowed his ego to get in the way and disclosed the name of community more than three times and the breakdown of costs.  Also note that he behaved in the beginning like Q'eros is an isolated community not really known by tourists.  Yet, google Q'eros, you will see how many websites and tourist blogs are about them.)


My response:
You assumed I'm a male. I'm a female, that's why I preferred to trek with a female.
I will leave a review for you. You should be careful of your words.
It is not very good to wish people to have bad experiences. That is a very black heart.


His response:
Black heart is who don't care about ethics when going to communities and thinking only about the money they pay and not what is done with this money. I fight black hearts with the black part of my heart because against westerners evil like you who stay in their same evil mentality there is no way. My struggle for 12 years is to protect Q'ero people from people like you and I don't see why I should be nice to evil people. So sorry if I don't care my words, make your review as you wish, write everything you can on me and my agency I don't care.
Don Quichotte: "dogs are barking Sancho, means that we are progressing"
So to end it I just want to say to you the last not nice words: FUCK YOU YOU AND YOUR FAT ASS.

My response:

Thats not very nice at all.
You're offended because I asked how much goes to the community.
What makes you think I come from the West? By the way, Peru is Western.


His response:
I don't care where you come from, you have a real westerner mentality, only thinking of paying the lowest price not thinking of what it implies, the same mentality that make people buy low price products made by children in Asia for exemple and not caring about it. Why should I be nice to you. I know the reality of Q'ero better than many who exploit them...

I will not let anybody tell me what you told me and if I can fight against black hearts I will do with all my strength and by all means.
Peru is western ? Why then do you want to go to these "westerner" communities that are so traditionnal, you don't even know what you say yourself.
This a good experience this kind of exchange with you, makes me not forgetting against what evil and who I have decided to fight in my life and for what and who I do so.
Don't worry we will take care that your journey be as pleasant as possible hahahahahahaha !!!!!

My response:
Its because of mentality like yours, where people view a whole nation of others as evil, is where there is so much war, instead of creating understanding and respect. 
You want ethical tourism, you should be happy I asked how much goes to the community.  And I know enough about Q'eros that you can't get very far in 2 days, 1 night.
You are not being honest.

His response:
let me laugh ! Who is not being honest ? Don't transfer to me your consciousness problems and go fucking yourself. Go wherever you want, anyway what you do is your problem and you will have to suffer the consequence yourself.
It's because of people with your kind of mentality that there is war and that some other people have to fight against you. Do you think you will achieve peace with the way you only selfishly think about yourself and your little money and your pocket not thinking about the consequence of your acts on other people that might be exploited thanks to you ? Finally you don't care your only preocupation is to keep a good image of yourself justifying yourself for all what you do. You are soooo good !!!!

My response:
Yes, you achieve peace by meeting people you don't know and learn from them.  Not judge them.



END









In case he wants to claim this is all a fake, I invite you to view the following screen capture from my email inbox: